Well, if you are thinking in terms of motorcycle fashion apparel, I would recommend chrome, shaft-drive pendants, hanging from a series of gold chains that are attached to a leather belt with a chrome bike-buckle to secure your pants. And that should give you a good indication on why I am writing about bikes instead of fashion.
OK, here’s the multiple choice quiz you wished for in elementary school: What is the best way to drive power from a motorcycle engine to its rear wheel?
- Chain Drive?
- Belt Drive?
- Shaft Drive?
If you answered “1,” “2,” or “3,” you are right!
(Wouldn’t that be great if all quizzes were that easy?)
All three are valid and workable technologies. In addition, they’ve all been around a very long time. “Which is best” depends upon your type of riding and/or personal preference.
First of all, for some riding applications “no thinking is required” because you won’t have a choice, but other types of riding can benefit from a little forethought.
No Thinking Required:
- Dirt bikes come with chains
- Dual purpose motorbikes have chain drives
- “Most” sport bikes are driven by chains (with rare belt-drive exceptions)
- In fact, the majority of motorcycles are chain driven
- However, most large touring bikes are usually equipped with a shaft drive
Thinking Required:
- Cruisers are the most popular type of bikes to find belt drives, although you can buy cruisers with shaft or chain drives
- Sport-touring bikes primarily include chain or shaft drives
- Most adventure-touring bikes are driven by chain or shaft with a rare belt-drive exception
OK, so what’s the difference already!?
Stated briefly, chain drives are the most economical way to transmit power to the rear wheel. They also convey the greatest percentage of engine power in the process. Chain drives are by far the most popular drive mechanism in motorbikes around the world. On the other hand, they also require the most maintenance, are dirty, and not as smooth as a shaft or belt drive. Bear in mind that the most routine motorcycle maintenance required of a rider is taking care of those metal chain links! (Unless you include putting gas in the tank.) So, reducing that chain maintenance equates to greater rider enjoyment.
Hence, belt drives are a viable option where available (mostly, but not exclusively, on cruisers). Not only do belts require less frequent adjustments than a chain, they also last longer, so the whole task of having them replaced is reduced. Belt drives are cleaner since there is no chain lube flying around to mess up your bike or that belt in your jeans with gold chains and chrome, shaft pendants dangling around. Belt drives are also smoother than chain drives.
And finally, there are shaft drives: the same technology that is used in automobiles. Shaft drives are smooth. They are the lowest maintenance of the three. (The shaft drive oil reservoir needs to be infrequently drained and replaced). They are quiet and clean. Motorcycle shaft drives are also heavier and more expensive than chain or belt drives. Furthermore, a small amount of performance is lost while moving that power from the engine to the rear wheel via some extra gears in the shaft drive. Hence, you won’t see them on pure performance machines.
In brief, most riders won’t need to decide between chain, belt or shaft drives because so many categories of motorbikes do not offer a choice.
On the other hand, should you be a rider fond of cruisers; or should you be a sports-touring aficionado; or one who likes to ride long distances on pavement and also ride on dirt roads (adventure touring); then you can purchase a bike with the technology of your choice to make your rear wheel go round and round at your whim.
Note: this doesn’t mean any given bike model within these noted categories will give you an option to purchase these different drive methods, it means you can find different bike models within the noted categories of motorbikes that will include your preference.
Most long-distance riders, whether on a cruiser, sport tourer, or adventure tourer will be better served with a shaft drive. But of course you will pay a little more for that smoother, cleaner and low maintenance choice.
Which means that nifty leather belt in your pants with the dangling chrome pendants will not get chain lube on them.
I have had about nine bikes in my life, all but three have been chain. My only complaint about chain was the need to replace the chain and sprockets. Chain lube and chain adjustment riding around the suburbs wasn’t to much of a problem but it’s a different matter for going any great distance.
My first shaft drive was an old Honda CX500 and I had to adjust my cornering due to the torque effect of the motor. It semed to lean more easier on left turns than right. But you get used to it. The second shaft was a basic CX500 which had none of the cornering issues the turbo did.
Now I have one of the best bike on the planet. A 1999 Honda ST1100ABS. I can’t fault it. It’s so smooth and almost maintenance free as far the shaft is concerned. No problems with cornering that some of you seem to have.
Performance is no issue, it’s a 300kg bike so I’m sure Honda did their sums ok. Where I live, passing triple and quad road trains is quite common and the bike does it so easily, just drop back a gear and before you know it your doing a 140kph and that’s two up with a trailer on.
Would I ever go back to chain? … No way. Belt drive? never tried it. I’ll stay with shaft.
I presently own all 3 types. Which is best? Assuming a track record of near perfect reliability of a specific make and model, personally I would opt for shaft drive. The fly in the ointment is that one manufacturer of shaft drive machines has less than a stellar record for ease of periodic maintenance, and reliability of drive line components.
I concur that chain drive lubrication can be messy but if properly applied not overly so. It is the easiest drive system to modify, change and maintain.
Belt drives can be the best of both worlds. I haven’t owned one long enough to say if it is superior to shaft or chain.
I recommend that a prospective buyer should read brand specific forums and learn what the owners have to say.
chain drive is better than other two ,but the chain completely secure with chain box.
I dont have any of those shaft issues on my 84 Honda Shadow 700. Maybe it depends on the make/model of the bike
They’re all great final drive systems, one more or less complicated than the other. I think that it is through necessity that someone would chose to narrow down between a chain, belt or shaft drive system.
Chain Drive = horsepower
Belt drive= robs horsepower but runs much smoother and lasts longer than a chain
Shaft Drives = I’ve never owned one, probably never will but I’m sure that in some alternate universe their cool somewhere. *scratches head*
I’ve had several bikes over the many years of riding , street and offroad bikes, chain, shaft
and a 08 harley dyna lowrider. have not had any trouble with any , just keep chains clean and lubed. The way I look at it about belt drives……. any belt drive that can stand up to a 600 to 900 pound motorcycle with 1200 to 1800 cc’s with gobs of power in all ranges must be one hell of a good setup. happy riding…………..Chet
I have only owner chain drive bikes. The first was a small Yamaha cruiser. 250cc. i only had it 22K and never replaced the chain. Just lubed it every 500 or so. That was in the early 80’s.
My second bike I just bought four years ago. It’s a 2004 Honda Shadow VLX 583cc with the “O ring” chain. I got 34K out of the first chain until a few links got stiff and would not straighten out completely after bending around the tight radius of the front sprocket. I lube at 500 miles to save the sprockets. I have 52K on the sprockets now and 18K on this chain. Anticipating having to replace the chain and sprockets next time I am about ready to plunk down the $600 for a belt drive conversion. It’s not the lubing that I don’t like, Its the chain lube all over my saddle bags and luggage all the time. Real mess when touring long distances on my bike.
The conversion also gears the bike up a bit claiming no loss of power due to the belt being more efficient than a chain. That would be nice since I only have a four speed tyranny.
I just feel the need to point out that modern O-ring chains are for the most part maintenance free.
You need not clean them or lube them as the lube is sealed inside of the chain.
Spray some Teflon chain lube from time to time (to lube the chain to the sprockets and that is all that is ever needed. (Unless you ride in very muddy conditions in which case you would want to clean it on occasion)
1982 – I never proof read.
Years ago I had an 1082 KZ750 that was chain drive and tday I own a 2005 1400 Boulevard. It sure seems that the KZ750 was faster….and it would definately ride a wheelie a lot easier.
I ride a Honda Shadow, which have historically always been shaft driven. I spent one summer on a Suzuki Savage with a belt drive, and had no complaints. I enjoy the maintenance free aspect of the drive shaft; I look my Shadow over from time to time, but the only work I’ve done is changing the oil and replacing one battery.
As it has turned out, I have ended up with the more reliable and lower maintenance bikes out of all the ones I have ever owned, therefore they both have shaft drive. I have nothing against the other methods, but it *is* nice not to have to do the old clean and lube bit every 300-500 miles, which was the schedule with my KLR 650 (chain drive).
I have had friends ask about shaft-lash, but I have never noticed a problem; maybe this is something that was more prevalent in the early shaft-drive bikes. Then again, my first motorcycle (an ‘83 Honda 650 Nighthawk — which I still own and ride regularly) has shaft drive, and having started out with a shaft, I had no basis for comparison.
In the end, who cares what sends the power to the rear tire? Unless you are a racer, I don’t think it matters. Just get out and ride!
Dave
Finally..I got a quiz right. My answer ….it depends on the bike. In regards to Michael on cleaning a chain, the way I do it is fast and easy. Raise the rear of the bike off the ground with a jack or centerstand so the wheel turns freely. Place cardboard or something similar under wheel. Take a stiff brush (3-headed is perfect, sold in motorcycle catalogs ) and dip in kerosene and clean your chain by turning the wheel as you hold the brush on the chain. After all the grunge and grit is removed from chain and sproket, spray chain with a quality non-fly off chain lube. No need to remove chain from bike or let chain soak overnight..
I would prefer a belt-driven final drive coz belts are quieter in operation, they are smart, they offer less frictional losses thus spairirng more engine power for meaningful work and they are cheaper to obtain (manufacture/produce) than chains and shafts.
Of course they are known to break, shouldn’t be such a wory, it happens to shafts and chains too.
Albert
I have only had several bikes with either shafts or chains and until now, have prefered high quality chains. But now my new ride (2008 Kawasaki Concours 14) has the new Tetra Link drive. I must report in my view — new technology wins!! the bike has lots of juice and you can’t feel the shaft at all.
I’m on my third Honda, a 2007 areo 750, the fist two were Hondas also but chain driven. Honest I can’t tell the difference between the Areo and the two prior chain driven ones. When I first got it and passed the break in millage I drove the dog crap out of it just to see if itwould hold together or fly apart. It held together. It handles great, I noticed no rise or fall of the rear end during accerated and no tugging to the right or left when I rode curves to the right. Maybe I’m not sensative to the behavior of the bike when I ride. Too busy enjoying the hell out of the ride to notice. Thank you Jesus for my shaft drive.
so I would think if you have chain drive then you need to chains,
Now that I have you confused I think with my bike that has a belt might get a chain down the road because it is a sport bike and I do not think the belt can take the horse power.
Mike
Like others, I’ve owned and ridden with all 3 technologies. Each type is well suited for the type of bike and riding so one isn’t clearly better or worse than the other – just different. I have noticed some torque steer on shaft drive machines, which is annoying, but is easy to live with if you don’t spend a lot of time hard on the throttle. My belt-drive FXR worked fine without breakage, but I have seen it happen. I have seen some bikers carry a sectioned emergency belt just in case. And of course my chain-drive Bonneville works well, but requires lube, cleaning, wears out every 38,000 miles and can be noisy. However it’s by far the most efficient way to transmit power with little horsepower loss. I personally carry a chain breaker and spare O-ring type master link just in case of an emergency.
So in short, your appraisal is correct. Chain for sport and dirt bikes, belt for cruisers and shaft for tourers.
I don’t think it matters if its chain, belt or shaft. I think only two things matter;
1. What you want to ride and;
2. How you ride it
I ride a ‘88 V45 Magna w/shaft drive and don’t experience the quirks mentioned here, and elsewhere, about shaft drive bikes. As a cruiser, it’s not as hot in the curves as sportier bikes, but I push close to it’s limits. It’s definitly smoother, and less maintenance. It probably does lose some power in transfer, but I can’t tell it against other 750 Magnas or Nighthawks.
And, if a shaft drive does tend to lift the rear during acceleration, what difference does it make whether you’re carving right or left?
Belts should be considered only if you don’t mind getting stranded beside the road when it breaks.
I have a Buell Ulysses and it stranded me twice in its first 18,000 miles.
Problem is, the first time was at 12,000 miles and the second just before 18,000 miles so it’s hard to predict the next failure, beyond knowing that it will likely be long before the owner’s manual estimate of 100,000 miles. In any event, the last time it stranded me, at 26,000 miles, it was an an electrical failure – the belt’s still good.
I LIKE NEW TECHNOLOGY FORGET CHAIN/BELT DRIVE SHAFT DRIVE IS THE ONLY WAY TO GO ,AZ IS THE ROCK STATE ,I HAD MY EYE ON THE NEW KAWASAKI 1700 NOMAD UNTIL I LOOKED AT THE SPECS. LOOKS LIKE KAWASAKI DONE AWAY WITH AL SHAFT DRIVES ON THERE 2009 BIKES, LOOKS LIKE I PASS ON THE 1700 NOMAD TO BAD AL THE NEW DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY ON THE 2009 BIKES WHY WOULD THEY CHANGE TO BELT DRIVE, BIG BUCKS SAVED ON BELT /CHAIN VIS SHAFT DRIVE TORQUE /HP VERY LITTLE EFFECT, WHO KNOWS I CAN WAIT TILL 2010.NO WAY TO CUT COST .
I have ridden all three and the I really dont care for is the shaft drive its smooth down the highway but you go into corners to the right and it will try to throw you out of the corner you had to be ready I never had those problems with chain or belts currently riding a belt ouch
Hi Julian,
Belt-drives require less frequent adjustments than a chain. However, on a “scooter,” where less power is transferred from the engine, through the belt, to the rear wheel (compared to a big cruiser), very little adjustment is required over time. In fact, depending upon how much you ride, it may be worth checking once a year. (Consult the owner’s manual for more specific maintenance advice).
Best,
MCG
belts seem like a good option i guess.im getting a scooter soon which has a belt..
can u give me any tips that can help me maintain it?
I have ridden all three and shaft I do not like because it makes the fear end go up and down with the throttle,
Chain is good because you can change the gear ratio and have better control of how your bike performs and also stronger than belts,
I like belts because of the no maintenance to them and do not fling oil all over the rim,
but they have been known to break and with a chain you can carry a couple of links and piece of the chain just in case you do break it,
shaft you do not have to worry about breaking the chain or belt but goes up and down with throttle movement,
also the proper way to lube the chain is take it off and brush all the grime off of it and soak it in a oil bath then the next day hang it up to drip the extra oil off and then put it on so I would think if you have chain drive then you need to chains,
Now that I have you confused I think with my bike that has a belt might get a chain down the road because it is a sport bike and I do not think the belt can take the horse power.
Mike