1) What would you recommend as a “first” motorcycle for a newbie?
2) With a gazillion bikes to choose from, how would you advise a friend, new to the world of motorcycling, on which bike to purchase?
3) Should it be a used bike or a new one?
You and I will likely agree on this advice: “Do not buy the biggest and/or fastest bike available.”
OK. That’s obvious. Yet, according to an employee at my local motorcycle dealership, new buyers routinely purchase motorcycles they are not ready to handle. (And this is a LARGE dealership).
I’ve been at that same dealer when a guy bought a big, expensive bike, having never ridden before, and dropped it before he got 20 yards, breaking a lever and turn signal and causing other minor damage. (The rider was unscathed – just embarrassed). I asked one of the mechanics about it and he said, “It happens all the time” and repeated several recent examples of the same.
It’s not unthinkable that at least some of these new riders asked some rider friends about what they would recommend. What did those friends suggest?
Stated simply: If you are not an experienced rider, don’t buy a hyper-powered Suzuki Hayabusa, or Kawasaki ZX14. Don’t get a full-tourer, such as Honda Goldwing or BMW LT. Don’t buy any Harley Davidson bigger than a Sportster as your first bike. Do not purchase a sport-touring bike, such as a BMW RT or BMW GT, Kawasaki Concours14, Honda ST1300, or Yamaha FJR1300 as your first ride.
Would you advise a new rider to purchase a middle-weight bike?
Opinions diverge here.
“Middle-weight” still includes a significant variety of high-performance sport bikes, especially in the neighborhood of 600cc to 750cc.
A mid-weight could include an 883cc Sportster, which is “small” in the Harley Davidson family.
The supporting side of the argument for starting a new rider on a mid-sized bike is that once you get through your initial learning curve, you’ll be able to “grow into” the bike instead of buying another one. The idea is that there is an economical advantage to getting a bigger bike (midsize) than a new rider may be able to readily handle while he is learning to ride.
My view is more conservative: I recommend that men and women purchase a “small” bike as their first machine (250cc or smaller).
• Smaller bikes are easier to lift back up if you drop it when you fail to set down your side stand correctly, or if you lose your footing in some loose gravel at a stop sign.
• Smaller bikes are easier to handle and are more forgiving: Larger and more powerful bikes demand greater precision, skill, and smoothness to keep them controlled.
• Insurance costs are less for smaller bikes.
• There’s a fuel economy advantage with a small bike, too, although that will not be relevant to all riders. (Many riders would continue their bike passion even if fuel was more costly for a motorbike than a car).
EXAMPLES OF PRACTICAL FIRST BIKES FOR NEW RIDERS
This is not an exhaustive list of practical first bikes for new riders, but they do represent the concepts in this article:
- Honda Rebel 250 (Cruiser)
- Honda Nighthawk 250 (Standard)
- Honda CRF230L (Dual Purpose)
- Kawasaki KLX250S (Dual Purpose)
- Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Sport)
- Kawasaki Eliminator 125 (Cruiser)
- Suzuki GZ250 (Standard)
- Suzuki DR200SE (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha WR250X (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha WR250R (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha XT250 (Dual Purpose)
- Yamaha V Star 250 (Cruiser)
Although not everyone I recommend such bikes to will follow through and buy a small bike (they’ll get a bigger one), I’m of the thinking that a gradient approach to learning and gaining experience will pay off in greater longer-term enjoyment and safety.
What about buying a used or new bike as a first motorcycle purchase? Click here.
600 Suzuki GF model, the high bars model. 2 cyclinder 600R Kawasaki.
1.I happen to think that learning to ride is a huge endevor and should be done over the course of time and with appropriate equipment.
I ride a HD and I recently purchased a Brammo Enertia electric motorcycle and it has no transmission so no clutch or shifter. I remember considering talking to our local safety course managers, Team Oregon, and suggesting that a true NEWBIE would be better off learning in two seperate safety courses, one that is riden on the Brammo Enetia, and then a next class riden on a gas powered bike. Back in 1996 when I first took my endorsement class, I was the only woman. A death in the family meant I couldnt do the last day of class, I finally broke down and took the class last year and out of 10 people, I was one of three woman. I know women riders are a much larger group today and yet, I think it still has its draw-backs to some. One young lady had never been on a bike before and didnt even make it to mid-class before she decided that riding was too hard. The second one had spent a couple weeks riding her brothers dirt bike in a parking lot but she dumped her bike a dozen times. She did finish the class but, I had given her my email address so we could ride… she never got in touch with me. I would love to see woman have a less intimidating way to learn! Just for the record, there were two young men that didnt do well either and they had never been on a bike. One dropped his bike around ever curve! I just believe that learning to ride with confidence is the first step to learning to ride well. Learning to shift and clutch will come later. Thats why you dont learn to drive a car with a stick shift… same idea!
I also considered that several months of riding on the Enertia would give the newbie rider a chance to get used to manuveuring the motorcycle and gain plenty of confidence on a ‘REAL” motorcycle. The Enertia has a range of 40 miles which gives the rider plenty of time to learn to ride and leaves them no chance to risk a long ride before they are ready. Too many times a rider is not ready for the ride they take. Especially on curves!
2. I would advise a friend to consider a smaller cc motor first, rather than larger. You can always trade up. I always advise a person to consider a bike they can lift from the ground, should they drop it. As a new rider, its bound to happen.. just once! I had to pick up my ‘01 883 Hugger! 495lbs and nobody around but me!! Dont be talked into a manufacturer! It doesnt matter what you ride as long as you like it, can afford it, and.. most importantly, can ride it safetly!
3. I always say to go used. The worst thing to do is put the first scrape on your bike! Why take on a huge price tag if its not going to be something you want to do daily or even weekly. Once you find out how you REALLY feel about riding, then you can make a decision to do something different.
Let me wrap this up by saying that it takes time to be a really good rider. Give yourself PLENTY of time! Ride safe and enjoy!
This is not a casual question and should not expect a casual answer. As a new rider with less than 2k miles, I asked that question to a few people but in the end I knew I had to answer that question for myself. Each rider must first understand they are solely responsible for the SAFE and efficient operation of that equipment. I think more importantly the question should be followed by a number of questions, such as: What prior experience do you have? What kind of physical shape are you in? What kind of riding do you want to do? How much riding do you want to do? What do you know about riding? What do you think you know about riding? How much do you want to spend on a bike? ect.
I rode other peoples dirt bikes for years in my teens & twenties. I am 49 know, with a limited income. I am physically fit, mechanically inclined, with a limited knowledge of street riding. I bought a 26 yr. old bike needing minor mechanical/electrical work, 500cc. I have dropped my bike about 3 times, I’ve had a couple of high speed scares and some low speed embarrassments. I love my bike! I love riding! I love working on my bike! I am looking forward to buying my next bigger bike next year!
A million years ago I (along with most of my MSF colleagues) used to recommend starting small, 250? and moving up as experience accrued. Problem? A study found that motorcyclists with fewer than 5 months on a particular bike were statistically over represented in accident data.
Now, you are more or less on your own: Get a Hayabusa as a first bike and the Darwinian-self-cleaning-oven effect may occur. Get a 250 and you’ll probably get bored and have to sell it within a couple of years but at least you’ll still be ambulatory with a full range of motion in all your extremities.
One of my colleagues suggests used Vstroms. Not too heavy, good ergonomics, relatively inexpensive to buy and insure – only problem is that any male under 25 absolutely has to have a sport bike regardless of his skill level. Benjamin Franklin said experience is a dear mistress but a fool will have no other. Still true unfortunately.
I don’t make suggestions anymore I just ask the noobs to carefully consider what they want to use it for and realize that everything is a compromise.
I did my DAS, then bought an Aprilia Pegaso Cube on e-bay. Boy what a shock! It was either change the bike or wrap myself around a tree. Even though this machine was only 650cc and single, it had 5 valves in the head and twin carbs and exhausts. To say that I frightened myself silly would be an understatement. Luckily within 2 week’s I happened to call into a local bike shop and was immediately taken with a lovely looking Yamaha. I promptly part exchanged the Aprilia and became the proud owner of a Yamaha BT1100 Bulldog. What a machine, an upright riding position, relatively low seat height, low center of gravity, impeccable manners. A good strong gutsy engine which can turn into a raving lunatic if you feel the desire, brake’s that WILL stop you, a frame that never get’s you out of shape and finally, shaft drive and a headlight like a searchlight. I have no problem keeping up with so called sportsbikes, and alway’s arrive at my destination fresh, unlike the sportsters, who need at least an hour to straighten up again.
AS YOU CAN PROBABLY TELL, I WOULD RECCOMMEND A GOOD SECONDHAND BULLDOG EVERYTIME. PRICES ARE REASONABLE, AND IT’S A HELL OF A MACHINE, AND WON’T CHEW UP A NOVICE. CHEAP INSURANCE AND 55mpg. Have I let the cat out of the bag. There are plenty around at the moment, but they are being snapped up. By the way I’ve had mine 2 years and NO its NOT FOR SALE!!!
After going on a BMW novice rider cause, I bought an BMW F800ST for a first bike. Yes I dropped it on my 2nd ride but I convinced I would have gotten bored with a 250cc wihtin a month. After less than a year I’ve already ridden a Honda fireblade and I loved it. Other people might not feel the same way. It all depends on body build, confidence and personal preference. Therefore I would suggest start on the bike you feel the most comfortable on…as long as it is under 800cc.
Smaller in weight or displacement does not always equal easier to ride. I ride H-Ds and have owned 5 Harleys. Two were Sportsters, and I would not recommend these as “starter bikes” with the possible exception of the “L” series–lower seat height and Center of Gravity.
Smaller bikes also are usually (not always) less visible. Very basic lighting, turn signals and brakes, which make them somewhat less safe. I think the advice for mid-weight cruisers in the 600-800 cc range will provide a better learning platform that will enable the new biker to learn safely, and enjoy on longer rides than the small, very basic bikes.
I started out on a Rebel and after having two of them moved on to a 650 V-Star Classic. A friend of a friend was about to buy her first bike earlier this year and I advised my friend to have her buy my Rebel since it had low miles and Id give her a great deal on it. The bigest reason was because the buyer is very thin and frail. She refused my Rebel and bought a used Honda 750 Shadow classic. I dont know how many months have gone by but the bike is just sitting in their garage, never used because the weight of it hurts her neck, shoulders and arms.
I recommend that new riders get small bikes to start out with: 250 or smaller. Even though you can plop anyone on a 650 and get them to ride it – they aren’t going to be a good rider for a while. Until a rider starts encountering a few harrowing circumstances that tests his/her abilities, that new rider won’t even know if he or she will be riding for more than a few outings. Putting any new rider on anything but a small bike is just stacking the odds against them being a long-term rider, or even surviving. Having said that, I’m aware that there are plenty of riders who do start out with mid-size bikes and go on to become long-time riders. To each his own.
I have been asked by many over the years on buying a first motorcycle. My answer has always been the same, “Nothing smaller than a 650.” The main reason is with smaller bikes it is hard to stay up with bigger bikes. I started out on BSA 650 Lightining in the 60’s and owned a couple smaller two stroke bikes, Yam RD350, Kaw 350-S2 and a 250 class flat track bike. None of these were mine for long, but oh so much fun.
There have been several girls/women who asked my opinion and I suggested the Yamaha Star 650 model. Seat height is low enough to allow most females to have their feet flat on the ground.
I find that most people who take the Maryland required Rider Safety Course find the Buells they use great for first time riders but too small for everyday use. Once they are used to riding them, a larger bike is not a problem. But, I still don’t recommend a Harley-Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Classic.
A good article. One should consider all factors such as their strength, experience etc. I am 73 years old and begin riding on my Dad’s 1949 HD, and since have had various bikes over the years. I now have a 650 Suzuki V-Strom that I am enjoying because of it’s lighter weight (as opposed to the 850lb Yamaha Stratoliner that I traded in). Riding the Wind.
Good article and some pretty good comments. I would suggest that everyone start out by taking the MSF Basic Riders Course. After that, purchase a bike not purely built for speed or a heavy cruising machine. Spend your time doing your homework reading the bike magazines and visiting the dealerships. Leave your ego at home. Once you do purchase a bike get more training either in the MSF curriculum or at another reputable company. At no time in your adventure would I ever recommend taking off the front brake and turn signals. I can guarantee your cool guy attitude will die the same time you do, senselessly and tragically. Riding 100 mph down the highway is also insane. If you feel the need for speed visit a local track where there are expert coaches and the environment is cleared of the obstacle you would encounter on a public road way. Ride safe, ride forever.
Major thanks for the article.Thanks Again. Cool.
I took the MSF Basic Rider Course and then purchased my first bike: Kawasaki 900 Classic LT. I took to it like a duck to water and love my daily commute. I am a smaller guy at 5′5” and not many bikes fit me. The 900 is perfect for me in that it is powerful enough for the freeway and not TOO heavy. I did drop it once being stupid backing out of my garage. I can lift it ok. For me, it was also a choice of not outgrowing the first bike.
I bought my first bike last summer, a used Honda Shadow Spirit 750. After taking a safety course, I really felt comfortable on the bike and plan to keep riding it.
If you don’t know how to ride the safety course is a great start . Most of them use 250’s cause they are light and comparably cheap to fix when dropped, however ; if you drop your bike at every other stop even in the beginning perhaps you should stay on four wheels . I was raised around the old 70’s chopper outlaws and , knew I wanted my first bike to be pure 70’s chopper . Luckily for me , my brother in law , who has around 20 years more irding experience than me , loaned me his sv650 . First day out was nutz . It took me a week to get it past 90 but , not too long after that I was on an amped-up gsxr1000 , sold that and now ride that old school chopper . honda cb900 bored to 1150 , springer front end , pizza cutter front tire , rear struts , no front brake , blinkers or , speedo . Now when i jump on the sv i do 100+ thru traffic withease . Start with something fast , light and ,manuverable , and ride it like you stole it .
From my 40+ years of riding and racing motorcycles I feel that a newbie should start on a used XR200 honda. With this motorcycle you can learn the basics of clutching, shifting, braking, turning, standing, sliding, and many other skills. Why would you turn someone out on the streets and highways with a machine capable of near 200mph and no experience? I would recomend taking an MX riding course and then after learning proper technics on dirt go to a road racing school and learn the basics there and practice till your skill level is up to par and confidence too. I had heard once that life expectancy of a crotch rocket rider in a big city was like 6 months. I cannot verify this but with odds like that a newbie probably shouldn’t be out there. The more prepared a person is the more rewarding the motorcycle experience can be.
I would not change any times good or bad on bikes, what a feeling of freedom you get while riding.
GOD BLESS YOU ALL
GOD BLESS AMERICA
I notice you have recommended some duel purpose bikes. I think these are an excellent choice of machine for learner riders as riding in the dirt encourages a rider to experience a machine slipping and sliding beneath them and teaches throttle and brake control as part of the riding experience rather than a road bike which remains stable on the tarmac (for beginners) until an accident developes.
An experienced dirt bike rider stepping onto a road bike as a novice will always be a better road bike rider (handling skill wise) than vice versa.
Mike
W.Aust
I started with a Honda Shadow 600. It was perfect for me. I’m 6ft tall and close to 200lbs. The Honda Rebel was just too small. The shadow 600 was easy for me to handle AFTER the MSF safety course and a fair amount of parking lot practice! Before I took courses and studied the proper techniques for slow maneuvers I dropped the bike twice out of ignorance. No matter what you choose for your first bike make sure you know what to do and more importantly what not to do in tight situations!
Safe riding.
I followed a really slow path, not by any plan but by circumstance, but I believe its a good way.
Working downtown in a huge city for a public entity, parking for cars is not provided. I started (after tiring of the bus) with a moped, then got a Yamaha Morphous 250, and later a 750cc cruiser.
I fell on the Moped a lot through sheer stupidity, never dropped the 250cc, and only fell off the 750 a few times (very minor) within the first month of having it. If I had started with the 750 I’m sure I would have had some major crashes.