“I NEED A MOTORCYCLE THAT CAN HANDLE BIG-ROAD TRAFFIC.”
A reader asked me the above question (in the subject line). She has already been riding two other bikes, so this wouldn’t be her first. My answer comprises the rest of this post, but I’d be more interested in your views of how to select a “highway motorcycle.” (Please add to comments below where it says “Leave a Reply”).
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You ask an apt question and I believe there are many decent highway motorcycles. And in fact, your own personal interpretation of what best represents a highway motorcycle would be the primary determining factor since many modern midsize (and above) motorcycles operate quite well on highways.
Some folks might want a big bike with lots of luggage space, such as a Honda Goldwing, BMW GTL or one of Harley’s bigger touring bikes. However, for others, those machines are way too big, heavy and expensive.
A lighter and more agile type of machine would be a sports-tourer. These bikes take riders long-distances with luggage, quite comfortably. They also weigh less and cost less than the biggest touring machines. However, sport tourers are still big bikes, compared to most.
Some folks like the look and experience of cruisers, which have a tremendous variety of ways they can be customized, and they come in many different weights and engine sizes. They also generally sit lower to the ground, which, especially for shorter riders, is an important consideration.
If you ride a lot in all kinds of weather, you might want to consider a bike with a windshield, or adding a windshield to an existing motorcycle.
If you don’t mind a little extra weight and spending a little extra money, you might want to consider a motorcycle with a shaft drive, which is low maintenance.
Frankly, the above comments are merely a generalized overview, since every motorcycle represents a compromise of many factors, including:
- Price
- Weight
- Design (tourer, sport-tourer, cruiser, adventure-tourer, standard….)
- Seat height
- Suspension
- Ergonomics
- Engine size
- Performance
- Drive train (chain, belt, shaft)
- Available accessories (windshield, luggage, etc)
- And more
That’s a lot of stuff to contemplate and the reality is, any person might need to gain some years of experience riding on different bikes to develop enough personal perspective to determine what’s best for him/her.
Having said all that, if I were to answer your question as briefly as possible, I would boil it down to the following:
- Weight
- Ergonomics
- Price
I would not suggest getting a bike that you, personally, consider too big or heavy, which can lower your confidence if you don’t feel you are always fully in control of it.
Any bike should be comfortable for you. Whether you prefer leaning forward, or leaning backward or sitting upright, there are different bikes that accommodate such positions. How easily it is to place your feet on the ground is important. You need to get on the bikes and experience them. Ideally, you should ride any specific bike before you pay for it, but that’s not easy to arrange with many dealers (at least in the United States), particularly if you are purchasing a new bike.
Finally, for many persons, price is as important a factor as any and you’re the only person who can evaluate that. Of course, buying a used motorcycle can save money and there are many great opportunities in buying a used bike, but other riders are comforted by a brand-new machine which, in most cases, shouldn’t have many hidden problems. (New bikes also have a warranty to handle certain problems that might present themselves, and in my experience, I’ve saved a lot of money with warranties).
Wishing you safe riding!
I remember the Cushman Eagle scooter. I’ve had three BMW’s but prefer my Yam FJR 1300 with its excellent engine and reliability. Also low maintenance cost as is user friendly with 26,000 mile valve check interval. One repair in 66,000 miles–cam chain tensioner. Drive shaft splines are like new. And all on 87 octane. I have done 1,000 and 2,000 mile Iron Butt runs with it. Long cross country runs are a snap with it.
The best bike was a Cushman,Eagle…top speed was about 45 with the wind at your back… but a better bike is BMW R 1100, handles long distances well (600 to 700 miles a day) depending on my condition, handles all the gear needed for long distances,speeds at 75 gives me approx. 45 to 50 miles per gallon(depending on road conditions) speeds at 85 to 90 my MPG drops to about 41/42…. its a very basic bike, no extras on my bike..just good tires and a positive attitude..Enjoy the open road.
TRIUMPH ROCKET 1600 or even Bonneville America 865 (UK)
Great all-round cruisers, good on twisties, easy and comfortable to ride and handle like no other.
I too at 74 ride a Burgman 650. I believe it’s just the thing for us old geezers. It’ll keep up with anything at highway speeds and as Ron says, it will do it all day long at 50+ MPG. Plus carry all the gear you need without saddle bags or top bags.
I’m just a bit older than you, Ron, but still riding my FJR, but have been looking at the Burgman Executive and comparing to BMW scooter. Not sure if I am ready to give up on the FJR as it is a great bike. Tentative plans to go to Americade then to BMW meet in Oregon–I’ve had three BMW’s the last one a 2005 RT. Still prefer the FJR, although still belong to BMWMOA.
I have put on over 100k on a couple Goldwings over the years, and they were a great ride. However at 75 I don’t take many long rides, so I switched to a Suzuki Bergman 650. I can tell you this is the best all around bike I have owned. Not the comfort of a Gold Wing, but will run all day at freeway speeds, and with a little air cushion, the back side still feels good, and fifty miles per gal. don’t bother me either. I rode four days in the Ozarks a couple of years ago, and the only bikes that were faster, were 250cc Scooters.
PS. The Bergman handles side winds almost as well as the Goldwing did.
My comment will not really help at all Because i stopped riding on the street i spend all my riding on the Race track
I would say the most important points will be is don’t get a Sport bike anything where you
get source music
Nothing to heavy or big for your size very important ( you want to pick it up your self if it falls down )
Your decision on having wind screen or having bugs in your mouth that is a personal thing
And do not wear any yellow vest when trailing it makes people look at you and not focus on where they are going
Hop this helps Good Luck
I have ridden my 750 Shadow Phantom in all kinds of weather for 60,000 miles in the last 2 years. Am looking at $80 handlebar risers and having my seat re-done. Otherwise I can ride the interstate’s no problem. Suggest a good windshield for comfort and good footpegs. I have also learned that adjusting my shocks for the ride and any weight increases always makes the ride better. She handles the twisties real well, better than I can I believe and is easy in the parking lot. When you and th bike become one, riding is just so much nicer. May upgrade to the new Yamaha 1300 tourer.
I have owned 10 bikes and by far the BMW R1200GS is the best road bike I have ever owned. I bought it thinking it was good for dirt and gravel forest roads and was surprised how superior it was on the highway. Handles like a dream, carries everything you could imagine taking with you, smooth and plenty of power, tons of accessories made for it and great innovations make this the best in my humble opinion.
I rode my Kawasaki VN2000-A from Baltimore MD to Vancouver BC and back the summer before last. 8000 miles in 4 weeks, though 2 weeks were spent not riding. Very comfortable, got good gas mileage out of it. It was great on the straight roads in the plains, and the twisties in the mountains. Though when I got to Hwy 2 in Grand Falls ND and my GPS said next right turn 525 miles, I was a little concerned…
Asking what motorcycle will handle “Big Road” traffic infers that this rider is not yet experienced enough to be in heavy traffic yet. Motorcycles do not handle traffic, the rider handles traffic.
What type of heavy traffic; high speed like I-5 through California’ crowded like L.A. freeway rush hour; downtown L.A. traffic? Downtown Las Vegas where drivers can be distracted by the casinos and people? If the question is which motorcycle is good for long distance; I suggest getting a motorcycle that has or can accommodate carrying your needs. One that has a reasonable fuel capacity and is equipped to keep bugs and road debris off your teeth, and does not vibrate to the extent you become numb in a few hours.
Everybody has their personal favorite. I have found the Honda Shadow Aero 750 is an ideal bike for the ladies. It has enough power to keep up with the big boys and run at interstate speeds. It has a low center of gravity and a low seat, so even the shortest people can plant their feet firmly on the ground at a stop. It’s light weight compared to other cruisers. A wide variety of aftermarket accessories are available for this bike to equip it nicely for highway cruising and long road trips. The Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT is another good choice. It comes already equipped with accessories such as a windshield and saddlebags that the Honda does not come with. All of the Japanese cruisers and touring bikes would be a good choice. The bottom line is what you are comfortable with and what you can afford.
I have ridden bikes all my life, that saying, it would really not matter a lot to me what I am riding for my next long distance tour, provided I have ridden it at-a-stretch for a whole day (read 16 hours) & come back with no / minimal back pains & no handling woes.
Off-course I have my preferences; a relaxed sitting posture, a seat & footrest on which one can shift positions while riding & a comfortably agile handling. Also, a good ground clearance incase the route travels through mild to heavy gravel paths.
Another non-riding but decisive factor that applies in my case (may not be for others) is, IT should be something I can PUSH over to the side or in the worst case, for the last few kms on a really unlucky day (mechanical off-course & I have faced a number of those).
Having said this, I definitely would not take a bike for a long ride, whose working philosophy I don’t know or can’t check / repair MYSELF alone, incase of a failure.
Also, I usually travel very light with just a saddle bag catering to all my needs for months end. Somehow it’s my motorcycling philosophy; that the less I carry, the more FREE I can feel into the ride.
Apart from the above factors, it really doesn’t matter what I ride (and I have ridden a good number of different types of machines). What matters most in almost all cases is where I ride & how the roads / scenery / people will be.
If your legs are long enough, I’d recommend the Suzuki V-Strom, either the DL650 or DL1000. Many riders do 2-up on the 650, but others prefer the extra power of the 1000. The ergonomics are such that all day riding is not much of a problem. Sidebags and topcases can be added at reasonable cost to provide adequate luggage space. Mileage will be around 50 for the 650 and around 40 for the 1000. My only complaint is a relatively high center of gravity. If you put your foot down and it starts to slide on sand or mud, you will have to fight the bike to keep it upright. Otherwise, the V-Stroms, especially the 650, are considered by many owners as the most versatile combination of performance/handling and riding comfort at just about any price. As close to a perfect compromise as possible.
First of all, my comments come from 60 years of riding (I am 78) and putting on at least 20,000 a year 24/7/365 as I am in Florida and most of it is on open roads (not Xways they kill bikers). So riding back roads you will mostly be averaging around 45 mph if it is curvy and 55-60 if it is straight. The main purpose of road riding is rubbernecking so get a bike with laid back ergonomics, no crotch rocket as they are hard on the hands. A cruiser is the most comfortable with the exception of the world benchmark Gold Wing which is really a cruiser and a tourerer. You can add bags and windshield to a cruiser to make it a tourerer for far less total money. At today’s gas prices, most top quality cruisers get 45-50 mpg and cost a shade under $15000. That makes your insurance less too. My own steed is the perfect example of a perfect cruiser. It’s a Suzuki Intruder 1500 LC with all the toys including the most important feature for my butt, Mustang Seats. It has the required shaft drive, the smooth engine, the reliability and low maintenance of a metric, uses Regular grade fuel and will return 45 mpg consistently. We used to ride 2-up and it was comfortable for my 68 YO wife, but now she is back on her own loaded cruiser (75 mpg), a Honda Rebel Trike (bad knees). We are planning another 3500 mile month long trip in July from Florida to Oswego NY to Mich to Iowa to Indy and home and both bikes will handle the long days and long miles just fine. I am a big guy and she is a small woman, so it is important that both bikes fit our statures as we will ride 3-400 miles each day playing tourists. Nobody needs 1000cc’s to travel leisurely, so why pay for it? I bought mine used or I would have opted for around 800cc if buying new. Some years ago we two Floridians rode to Dallas and back then to Oswego and back with many Smokie mountain trips inbetween, all on single cylinder 250cc full size Yamaha road bikes, so a big engine is not required. What is required is comfort for the rider in both safe handling, weight (you should be able to pick it up solo) and economical (no Premium). Cost?? Don’t take any more out of your interest paying savings account than is necessary to pay cash. Forget image, those guys just like to huff and puff while paying out the nose. There are many many better choices out there for the long haul from Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, BMW and Triumph that won’t break the bank or your butt. Finally, it is not important WHAT you ride, but THAT you ride. Always wear a helmet so you don’t look stupid, and remember when on the highways and byways, Low five the other bikers and High five the LEO’s who protect you. Just the view from my saddle…..
First of all you need to define what will be the main use of the bike as you just can’t have something sitting unused for weeks/months at a time.
So then you need somehing that’s good for commuting plus the long haul touring rides. Do you want to carry extra and maybe a trailer, one up or two up. The choices slowly dwindle and then you come down to the maintenance side. do you want to adjust your drive chain every so often while on tour? No, is my answer, so shaft drive is the go, or maybe belt (???).
In Australia I had to consider remote fuel locations, will the bikes range allow you to do 300kms minimum (with trailer) before reserve. The choices reduce to less than a handful over here. We ended up with the 1999 Honda ST1100ABS. Nothing came close except maybe the BMW R1200RT or similar.
I ride two up 75% of the time and tow a trailer 50% of the time and the 1100 fits that role perfectly for us.
Six years and 138,000kms (we bought used) later it’s been trouble free except for the usual maintenance items.
By definition highway travel is mid to long distance. Here in South Africa the bike of choice for this (by an overwhelming margin) is BMW’s 1200GS. If the lady is a shorty look at something else but if average in height the lower saddle will suffice. For the long distance and mucho luggage application this bike has so much in the way of accessories available its a delight. It is responsive and handles great – surprisingly so. I have owned a number a bikes and still do (all Superbikes) but if I had to settle for a single bike it would be one of these. Full fairing bikes are not an essential issue but if this is what pushes her buttons take the 1200RT. You cant go wrong and resale values are pretty solid.