VERY BIG NATIONAL PARK

This weekend kicked off my 2009 touring season with an annual trek to Death Valley National Park, and back to the Pacific Ocean.

This trip was only an 800 mile adventure, and, as usual, included a lot of great roads (in and out of the park). It’s also the first motorbike camping I usually do for the year.

This was the earliest I’ve enjoyed the big park, which is the largest National Park in the lower 48 States, at 5,262 square miles. (That’s about the size of the State of Connecticut).

This trip there were not as many motorbikes visible. I’m not sure if that’s a reflection of the economy, inspiring less travel, or simply that it wasn’t quite warm enough yet. Although the main valley floor was very comfortable (in the lower 70 degrees), for any riders going up and down through the mountain ranges (in and outside of the park), there were some chilly points among the snow-covered peaks!

THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF DEATH VALLEY NATIONAL PARK

The warmest point in the main valley is the Badwater basin, which is the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level. However, the Pantamint Mountain Range, which represents the western edge of Death Valley itself, with its Telescope Peak (11,043 feet), is the highest point in the park.

To put that in perspective, the summit of Telescope Peak rises 11,331 feet above the floor of Death Valley in about 15 miles, so it’s a steep crust of the planet.

But let’s not forget that just west of the park is Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet), which is the highest point in the lower 48 states.

The point is that there is a lot of up and down and twisty riding navigating over all the mountain passes that typify this chunk of the continent called the American West.

If this season progresses per norm, very soon, I expect the few paved roads will be teeming with every kind of street bike, and the 600+ miles of dirt roads will be kicking up dust from all manner of dual-purpose bikes. (Only street legal motor vehicles allowed in the park, which rules out pure dirt bikes).

Among the bikes that were present this weekend, the majority were brought in by truck or trailer as evidenced by the lack of gear on the bikes, and by the encampments of RVs with nearby motorcycles.

SCENIC MARTIAN LANDSCAPE

Most of Death Valley National Park is not accessible by road, especially paved roads. Which means that riding along the main asphalt – CA State Route 190 and Route 178 – offers an appearance of infinite desolation in every direction. Surrounding the up and down twisties, strung together with several long straight-aways, are rugged, multi-colored mountains, canyons, desert floors, rocks and sparse vegetation: with rare signs of civilization.

On the one hand it’s like spending a few days in some primal Martian landscape, except that the road itself is in good shape and, unlike most other National Parks, I’ve never found the roads congested.

On the other hand, the few accommodations within the park can be booked solid anytime from fall to spring, even if the roads do not reflect the typical tourist congestion of say, Yellowstone or Yosemite National Parks in the west, or Shenandoah National Park in the east.

TENT CAMPING IN HIGH WINDS

Tent camping on this trip featured some unusually loud, strong and persistent winds in the evening: The desert winds flogged my tent mercilessly.

By the time midnight rolled around, the winds were gone and I walked out to the desert to enjoy the infinite silence.

Even with only half a moon shining, the valley and mountainous region were well illuminated, and the tremendous landscape was as readily enjoyed as during the day, and yet with a unique quiescence than only a nighttime desert may proffer.

ENCHANTING MOTORCYCLE RIDING JEWEL

Death Valley National Park not only is an enchanting place all of its own, it is a remarkably compelling and enjoyable jewel of pleasure for any motorbike riders. Just don’t visit in the summer, lest you be distracted by the driest and hottest heat you’ll encounter anywhere in North America.

By the way, California State Route 190 is deserving of special note since the section within the park, known as Death Valley Scenic Byway, is part of the National Scenic Byway system, which means it’s among the roads that the United States Department of Transportation has recognized as the most ideal for motorcycle riders traveling in the United States (although they word it a little differently).

California State Route 190 is arguably the most pleasant stretch of pavement; at least it’s in the best condition. In fact, the part within the park, known as the Death Valley Scenic Byway, is a National Scenic Byway.

Route 178, within the park, is less traveled than 190, and is in need of repaving, but is very much worth traversing. Dual-Sport and Adventure-Tourers will particularly revel over the numerous dirt and gravel roads.

Of course all this is best ridden when the temperatures are reasonable, which is fall, winter and spring. You probably already know that Death Valley gets warm. Indeed, it’s one of the hottest places on earth. Back in 1913, it attained the second-highest temperature ever recorded on our little earth: 134 degrees F. Moreover, there aren’t too many trees to find some shade. So, as any rider knows, you get to soak up them solar rays.

Nearly 550 square miles of this park lies below sea level, including the lowest point in North America – Badwater – which is 282 feet below sea level (expect this to be the warmest place of your visit). The point is the lower elevations do get toasty. 120 degrees is not that unusual in the summer. Temperatures tend toward the triple-digit end of the thermometer from mid-April until mid-October. Bring lots of water in any season.

In contrast to the Badwater basin area, the stark mountains appear even more tremendous as they thrust up into the heavens. Telescope Peak rises to over 11,000 feet. Bear in mind that this chunk of national park comprises more than 3.3 million acres of ruggedly inspiring desert scenery, multi-colored geology, undisturbed wilderness, and some interesting historical sites which makes any ride all the more relaxing and/or exhilarating, depending upon your pace.

In addition, the night sky is another equally spectacular vision. You’ll find it hard to fathom that there isn’t some kind of life out there somewhere when all those star lights seem as dense as downtown Los Angeles.

Be aware that this is a large chunk of Mother Nature set aside for motorcycles, and most of the 3.3 million acres have nothing but scenery. (It’s the largest national park in the lower 48 states). There are some services available within the park, including gas, but do keep an eye on your tank, as there is enough open space to run that fuel down to empty.

There is lodging in the park. As well, there are nine campgrounds with varying facilities. This weekend I camped in one of the low elevation campgrounds (Emigrant). Several higher elevation campgrounds and camping areas in the mountains remain open year round. However, most of the low elevation camps are closed in the summer in the hopes of keeping us wayward riders from getting cooked.

Ride Death Valley National Park outside of the summer, and you’ll look forward to an enchanted return again and again.

Motorcycle Entrance Fee: $10.00 for 7 Days, $20 with passenger.

Speaking of water, drink plenty of it. Any motorcyclist riding all-day and exposed to this level of heat and especially with this level of dryness is risking serious dehydration and reduced abilities. (Headaches, dizziness, fainting and even death are some of the symptoms). If you are thirsty, you have already past the point of having enough water.

Death Valley offers a grand mix of entertainment for varied motorcycle riders: On any day you can see tourers, cruisers, sport-tourers, dual-purpose riders and adventure riders taking advantage of the seemingly endless ribbons of asphalt and many hundreds of miles of unpaved back roads, all inter-woven through grand, western panoramas. (This chunk of federally protected real estate is more than twice the size of the state of Delaware).

On this particular trip I tent-camped in the park. There are several campgrounds to choose from at a variety of elevations, from minus sea level to 8200 feet above sea level and over 1/2 dozen options in between. I’ve toured by motorcycle all over North America and camping in this desert is one of the best places I’ve ever been for experiencing the boundless infinity of nighttime stars.

At 282 feet below sea level, Badwater, centrally located within Death Valley, is the lowest point in North America. Mountains encircle the valley, enclosing the extreme amounts of summer heat, creating temperatures that are among the hottest on earth. Summer is not the ideal time for a motorcycle visit. Temperatures above 120 degrees are not uncommon.

The motorcycle riding is divine. In fact the primary route, officially designated as “Death Valley Scenic Byway” (comprising Route 190 in the park) ranks as part of the “National Scenic Byways” which is a treasure trove of riding destinations for motorcycle riders across the United States.

Starting from the west and heading east, this route begins in Lone Pine, CA, at the base of Mt. Whitney, which is the highest point in the lower 48 states. This desert ride is only about 125 miles from Lone Pine to the lowest point in North America.

Regardless of what time of year you motor through this 3.3 million acres of rugged, harsh and quietly inspiring country, you will experience temperature changes riding up and down the mountains while checking out the unique, desolate and magnificent beauty of this multi-colored geology. The route not only takes you through mountains, but along sand dunes, salt-encrusted lake beds (see photo above) and vast, desert scenery.

In addition to the official byway tour, there are a plenty of other roads to explore. There are over 1000 miles of roads in Death Valley accessible to you. If you are an adventure rider or dual-purpose rider, more than 600 of those miles are unpaved and backcountry, and quite a bit recommended only for 4×4 vehicles. (Note: Only street-legal vehicles with valid license plates and current registration stickers are allowed, so alas, this big chunk of land is no-go for pure dirt bikes.)

There are many places to visit, but for any motorcyclist there are two particularly noteworthy side trips to consider: Dante’s View and Artists Drive. This is one large motorcycle playground!