2) With a gazillion bikes to choose from, how would you advise a friend, new to the world of motorcycling, on which bike to purchase?

3) Should it be a used bike or a new one?

You and I will likely agree on this advice: “Do not buy the biggest and/or fastest bike available.”

OK. That’s obvious. Yet, according to an employee at my local motorcycle dealership, new buyers routinely purchase motorcycles they are not ready to handle. (And this is a LARGE dealership).

I’ve been at that same dealer when a guy bought a big, expensive bike, having never ridden before, and dropped it before he got 20 yards, breaking a lever and turn signal and causing other minor damage. (The rider was unscathed – just embarrassed). I asked one of the mechanics about it and he said, “It happens all the time” and repeated several recent examples of the same.

It’s not unthinkable that at least some of these new riders asked some rider friends about what they would recommend. What did those friends suggest?

Stated simply: If you are not an experienced rider, don’t buy a hyper-powered Suzuki Hayabusa, or Kawasaki ZX14. Don’t get a full-tourer, such as Honda Goldwing or BMW LT. Don’t buy any Harley Davidson bigger than a Sportster as your first bike. Do not purchase a sport-touring bike, such as a BMW RT or BMW GT, Kawasaki Concours14, Honda ST1300, or Yamaha FJR1300 as your first ride.

Would you advise a new rider to purchase a middle-weight bike?

Opinions diverge here.

“Middle-weight” still includes a significant variety of high-performance sport bikes, especially in the neighborhood of 600cc to 750cc.

A mid-weight could include an 883cc Sportster, which is “small” in the Harley Davidson family.

The supporting side of the argument for starting a new rider on a mid-sized bike is that once you get through your initial learning curve, you’ll be able to “grow into” the bike instead of buying another one. The idea is that there is an economical advantage to getting a bigger bike (midsize) than a new rider may be able to readily handle while he is learning to ride.

My view is more conservative: I recommend that men and women purchase a “small” bike as their first machine (250cc or smaller).

• Smaller bikes are easier to lift back up if you drop it when you fail to set down your side stand correctly, or if you lose your footing in some loose gravel at a stop sign.

• Smaller bikes are easier to handle and are more forgiving: Larger and more powerful bikes demand greater precision, skill, and smoothness to keep them controlled.

• Insurance costs are less for smaller bikes.

• There’s a fuel economy advantage with a small bike, too, although that will not be relevant to all riders. (Many riders would continue their bike passion even if fuel was more costly for a motorbike than a car).

EXAMPLES OF PRACTICAL FIRST BIKES FOR NEW RIDERS

This is not an exhaustive list of practical first bikes for new riders, but they do represent the concepts in this article:

• Honda Rebel 250 (Cruiser)
• Honda Nighthawk 250 (Standard)
• Honda CRF230L (Dual Purpose)

• Kawasaki KLX250S (Dual Purpose)
• Kawasaki Ninja 250R (Sport)
• Kawasaki Eliminator 125 (Cruiser)

• Suzuki GZ250 (Standard)
• Suzuki DR200SE (Dual Purpose)

• Yamaha WR250X (Dual Purpose)
• Yamaha WR250R (Dual Purpose)
• Yamaha XT250 (Dual Purpose)
• Yamaha V Star 250 (Cruiser)

Although not everyone I recommend such bikes to will follow through and buy a small bike (they’ll get a bigger one), I’m of the thinking that a gradient approach to learning and gaining experience will pay off in greater longer-term enjoyment and safety.

What about buying a used or new bike as a first motorcycle purchase? Click here.

What you don’t see in these numbers is that 2006 marks the 14th year in a row for rising street bike purchases.

2006 is also the 4th year in a row that motorcycle sales have been above 1 million (including all the types noted above), which approaches the popularity of motorcycling in the 1970′s. The MIC notes 1973 as the crest for annual US motorcycle sales: back then it was 1.5 million. Bike sales declined in the 80′s and early 90′s and they have been going up each year since 1993.

Although overall motorcycle sales have marginally climbed (1.3%), the numbers show it’s not an across-the-boards increase. At 19%, the change in dual-sport sales marks the greatest rise.

On the other hand, I’m surprised that scooter sales have gone down at the same time as an increasing interest in fuel economy coupled with rising fuel prices. Back in the first quarter of 2005, the U.S. national average of a gallon of unleaded gas crossed the $2.00 mark and hasn’t returned. What will next year’s numbers show for scooters?

The off-road category is also interesting. In addition to the 9% drop seen on the graph, these numbers do not show that ATV sales also went down 4.2% in the same time period. That dispels any conjecture that a bunch of dirt riders migrated to quads. Your guess is as good as mine, but are some dirt guys going to dual sport?

Using BMW as a separate source of data, the tremendous success of their GS series of larger displacement “Adventure” bikes may be taking some of the dirt riders.

Regardless of how many, or how few, dirt riders are going this direction, I would guess riders are being attracted to dual-sport machines and GS’s from all other categories, and taking in new riders as well. (I would like to see some stats on that).

According to BMW’s own 2006 numbers published in January 2007 reporting on their GS series, “Not only is it the market leader by far among the large-volume enduro motorcycles, it is probably one of the best-selling motorcycle models worldwide in the category over 500 cc.” That’s a big statement but their GS bike sales are definitely doing well.

It could also be speculated that if you are buying or selling a used bike, expect better discounts in the dirt, and look for higher prices on anything that does street and dirt well. (Of course one could argue that there is no such thing as a bike that handles both street and dirt well. See earlier post on dual-purpose bikes.)

At 282 feet below sea level, Badwater, centrally located within Death Valley, is the lowest point in North America. Mountains encircle the valley, enclosing the extreme amounts of summer heat, creating temperatures that are among the hottest on earth. Summer is not the ideal time for a motorcycle visit. Temperatures above 120 degrees are not uncommon.

The motorcycle riding is divine. In fact the primary route, officially designated as “Death Valley Scenic Byway” (comprising Route 190 in the park) ranks as part of the “National Scenic Byways” which is a treasure trove of riding destinations for motorcycle riders across the United States.

Starting from the west and heading east, this route begins in Lone Pine, CA, at the base of Mt. Whitney, which is the highest point in the lower 48 states. This desert ride is only about 125 miles from Lone Pine to the lowest point in North America.

Regardless of what time of year you motor through this 3.3 million acres of rugged, harsh and quietly inspiring country, you will experience temperature changes riding up and down the mountains while checking out the unique, desolate and magnificent beauty of this multi-colored geology. The route not only takes you through mountains, but along sand dunes, salt-encrusted lake beds (see photo above) and vast, desert scenery.

In addition to the official byway tour, there are a plenty of other roads to explore. There are over 1000 miles of roads in Death Valley accessible to you. If you are an adventure rider or dual-purpose rider, more than 600 of those miles are unpaved and backcountry, and quite a bit recommended only for 4×4 vehicles. (Note: Only street-legal vehicles with valid license plates and current registration stickers are allowed, so alas, this big chunk of land is no-go for pure dirt bikes.)

There are many places to visit, but for any motorcyclist there are two particularly noteworthy side trips to consider: Dante’s View and Artists Drive. This is one large motorcycle playground!

They sure aren’t for everyone. See the earlier post on the good and bad for this category.

If you remain undaunted by the inherent compromise between street and dirt that these bikes offer, then which would best serve your future?

You probably won’t go wrong with either of these 2007 models: The Honda XR650L, Kawasaki KLR650 or Suzuki DR650S.

All three have an electric start.

All three are the same engine class.

However, their wet weights do vary and those weights are good indications of how they may fit your personal requirements:

The Honda is the slimmest at 344 pounds. It also has the highest seat height at 37 inches, as well as the longest suspension travel at 11 inches and sports the smallest fuel tank at 2.8 gallons. All that adds up to the strongest dirt-riding bias of the three.

The Suzuki takes the middle weight at 368 pounds, the middle fuel capacity at 3.4 gallons, the middle suspension travel at 10 inches and although it does have the lowest seat height of the three at 34.8 inches, for most riders, it would represent the middle compromise of the three.

The Kawasaki comes in at the heaviest at 411 pounds. The extra KLR weight is primarily attributed to its water-cooled configuration, as well as its much larger fuel capacity at 6.1 gallons which is almost twice that of the Suzuki (3.4 gal) and more than 2x of that of the Honda (2.8 gal). The suspension travel is 9 inches. Seat height is 35 inches. Additionally, it is the only bike of the three with a tachometer, luggage rack and a skid plate. it also has the largest wind deflector. One thing is does not have is dual-piston front brakes, which means the KLR lacks the better stopping power of the XR or the DR.

Writer/tester, Clement Salvadori, sums his conclusion as such: “Overall the KLR seems to be the best compromise among a trio of compromises, as it offers good power, the most range and comfort and some offroad capability.”

Click here for more info on the newly updated “2008″ Kawasaki KLR 650.